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Olight S30R Baton II Full Review
Olight S30R Baton II ReviewFlashlight provided for review by storl at GoingGear. Use coupon code "reddit" to save 10% on most items.
Manufacturer's DescriptionThis section contains the manufacturer's descriptions and claims, not my impressions or results
The S30R Baton II is a compact, powerful, and rechargeable LED flashlight, with a retina-scorching 1020-lumen beam that reaches out to 196 meters (643 ft). There are a total of five different power settings and a strobe mode-giving you the variable lighting options you need to take on any task. With it's powerful 18650 battery you can get up to 47 days of useful runtime off of a single charge. And with its included compact Micro-USB charging dock, you don't have to worry about bulky chargers or special cables. The S30R Baton II also features a power indicator located on the side switch, which will glow red when your battery power is low. With it's dual purpose magnetic tailcap, you can use the S30R Baton II as a hands-free convenient worklight, and attach it securely to the included charging base. So whether your changing a tire at night on the side of the road or trekking in the woods, the S30R Baton II has you covered
- Multi-function side switch with five brightness levels, plus a strobe mode.
- Low profile side switch features battery power indicator.
- Automatically return to your last brightness level with the built in memory function
- Includes Micro-USB charging dock and a rechargeable battery
- Removable pocket clip
- Aircraft-grade aluminum body with anti-scratch type III hard anodizing
|Cell size||Mode 1||Mode 2||Mode 3||Mode 4||Mode 5|
|all||1020/600 lumens||450 lumens||100 lumens||20 lumens||1 lumen|
|3200||3+110 min||2.8 hrs||12 hrs||62 hrs||47 days|
|3600||3+120 min||3 hrs||14 hrs||68 hrs||50 days|
- 9,600 candela
- IPX8 (2m) waterproof
- 1.5 M impact resistant
- Length: 117.5 mm / 4.65 in
- Max diameter: 26 mm / 1.02 in
- Weight (battery included): 128 g / 4.52 oz
UnboxingThe S30R Baton II comes in a very compact plastic retail hanger box. The front of the box contains some nice logos and basic specs surrounding the light itself. The back has a full description of the light along with another great view of it. I like this transparent packaging. All of the specs are printed on the side of the box, broken down by included battery size. Mine came with a 3600 mAh cell but it seems to be available with a 3200 mAh cell as well, presumably for a few dollars less. Unpacking the box, we find the following:
- The light itself
- A small black box
- Extra o-rings
- Small instruction booklet & product pamphlet
- The base itself
- Micro-USB cable
- An adhesive pad
- Small instruction booklet
So let's check this guy out! Here's the light itself. Its basically a cylindrical light with a nice hexagonal section at the base of the head. This gives the switch a flat place to live, plus prevents the light from rolling away. Its a really clean overall look. The machining is practically flawless and the logo imprint around the head is sharp and clear. The reverse side has the model number a few other bits of info. Most of the body is covered in an aggressive square-cut knurling so the light has very good grip. I especially like all the angular elements to the design. The same look is mirrored on the head. There's really nothing round here; its all angular cuts and is quite aggressive looking for such a small light. Overall its a really solid and attractive flashlight.
The single switch is located in the side of the head. Its a small black rubber switch with a nice chrome ring. Switch throw is medium-ish, longer than the flat plastic switches Olight has used on other lights, but not as long as a mechanical clicky. It is ever so slightly raised in the center, but the activation point is well below the level of the body. Accidental activation could be an issue for some users, but I think this design should be more resistant to that than the flat plastic switches used in the past. However, the tailcap threads are fully anodized so physical lockout only takes a very small twist. Solid square-cut threads, too.
I do find the switch kinda awkward to locate at times. Its not raised enough to really stand out by feel, so sometimes locating it takes a second. Of course if it were raised more it would be a lot more likely to accidentally activate, so I see what Olight was doing with this design, but it could use some design element to help with location.
The light comes with a nice deep carry pocket clip that leaves very little of the light protruding from your pocket. Its a strong, solid clip and works well. It's removable if you wanted and is held on by friction, but it does rotate around the body a bit more easily than I'd prefer. Mine's also very slightly crooked, as you can see in the 360º rotation above.
The business end houses an XM-L2 with a smooth aluminum reflector. The lens is surrounded by a blue glow-in-the-dark o-ring that really shows well when the light is on. Its definitely more greenish when you cut it off though. The glass lens has a very nice AR coating on it, so it basically vanishes. The head area itself is covered with deep heatsink cuts and does get quite hot when on turbo. The head and body are one solid piece of aluminum.
The tailcap on this light deserves a closer look. Obviously, the two contact points serve to interface with the charger. Both are solid pieces with nothing spring-loaded down here, probably helping to make the light waterproof and apparently fixing an issue with last year's design where charging could be intermittent. These connections are solid and connect directly to the contacts inside. Yes, that means there's voltage on the outside of the light, which is not something I expected. Shorting those two contacts on the tailcap would be bad. To prevent that, Olight has inset the center connection quite a bit, about 3/4 mm. In practice I think its very unlikely that this could be shorted. The center pin is small enough and inset far enough that I think it would be really hard to do accidentally. Just to be safe though, I don't think I'd ever use this light with an unprotected battery. Speaking of the battery, it goes in this light upside-down! The button top makes contact with the center pin in the tailcap, which is spring-loaded so different size and length buttons should all work, but flat-top batteries won't.
As everyone probably knows, one of the biggest selling points with Olight's Baton line is the magnetic tailcap. Obviously it serves to attach the light to the charging base, but its also really nice for hands-free use. I found myself sticking it to all sorts of stuff, just for fun. And it really doesn't take much metal. It even hangs very securely from these thin wire shelves in my pantry. And since the metal ring in the base is ever so slightly raised above the black anodized aluminum, you're not scuffing up your finish every time you stick it somewhere.
It may not be immediately obvious, but the bezel does screw off of this light. The AR glass is surrounded by a blue gasket that surrounds it on all sides instead of just being a simple round o-ring. Its a solid design. Now we can get a better look at the little reflector. Its nicely machined and mirror-smooth. Its also quite beefy, with a big thick section around the base that sits right on top of the emitter board and is the same diameter as the inside of the head, so it slides down and makes contact with the body for heat transfer. Very cool.
The emitter is an XM-L2 sitting on a tiny little board. Its screwed down and looks very solid. I did not try to remove it.
We've already covered the funky tailcap in detail above, so here's the negative connection down inside the body. Its spring loaded and there's an insulator of some sort that prevents the rest of the negative terminal of the battery from shorting against the driver.
Low Voltage Indicator
While the side switch on the light may look like solid black rubber, and it does, its actually translucent with a red led underneath that blinks when the battery is low. It looks like this. There's a spot in the center that stays dark, probably where the actual switch is, and since the red LED seems to be offset towards the bottom, the shadow of the pin means its slightly darker on the top edge. But its really well illuminated and easy to see. The indicator starts flashing when the battery hits about 3.4 volts.
I think this is really well done. Some other manufacturers, like Nitecore for instance, use a grayish rubber switch cover that's obviously translucent. This one looks solid black until it starts blinking. I honestly thought the specs were misprinted and that the low voltage indicator had been removed on this 2015 version.
Physical Description Album
Micro-Dok Charging BaseThe charging base for this light is a neat little piece of equipment. Its triangular and quite small, with the Olight logo on one face, a standard USB output on another, and the Micro USB input on the back. Underneath is a simple label with some specs and some good advice.
When you plug in the unit, a status LED in the front glows green, making the dock easy to locate in the dark. Popping the light onto the base causes the status LED to change to red. When the battery is fully charged, it goes back to green. Simple. Attaching the light to the base is quite easy due to the magnets, but I do occasionally have trouble getting it lined up correctly. The magnetic ring is inset slightly so there's an indentation the light is supposed to pop down into, but its easy to get it slightly off-center causing it to not make good contact. This issue is exacerbated by the fact that the center pin is on a spring so it easily just pushes out of the way instead of helping to line things up. Its not a big problem because you can just wiggle the light a little and it'll fall into place, but it doesn't just automatically line itself up every time.
The Micro-Dok setup doesn't include the necessary power supply. Its assumed that most people have one as a cell phone charger. iPhone users may have to source their own, however. But to use it, you simply plug it into your existing Micro USB power supply, then use the supplied cable to charge your phone through the output on the side of the dock.
The adhesive pad isn't just a standard double-sided tape setup, which is what I expected. Its a very flexible piece of clear silicone with some sort of coating on both sides. It is sticky, very sticky in fact, so its not just a static-clingy material. But the adhesive doesn't seem to come off on whatever you attach it to. It takes some effort to remove, but I was able to stick the base down on my table, remove it and reattach it elsewhere several times with no apparent loss of stickiness, and it never left any residue or damaged the finish on my wooden furniture. I'm not suggesting you could do that indefinitely, of course, but its not a "sticks once and done" material either. I don't know what this stuff is, but I like it.
This is labelled as a 1 amp charger and I believe it, but do keep in mind it can only do that if you feed it with a large enough power supply. I connected it to a 2.5 amp channel on my USB power station and it charges very quickly indeed. It'll still work with the 500 mA - 800 mA charger that comes with many cell phones, but charging times will be increased accordingly.
Included 18650 Cell
The 18650 included with this light is a nice, big 3600 mAh cell. Its a standard 18650, with one glaring difference - the anode end contains a negatively-charged ring allowing access to both terminals on the same end. You can see it here compared with a standard 18650. The included battery is on the left. This is required for both terminals of the battery to make contact with the charger. Consequently, the S30R and its charging base can only charge these special batteries.
The cathode ring is set flush against the body of the cell, underneath the plastic wrap. This slight inset provides a bit of short-circuit protection, but I'd be really careful storing or carrying this cell outside of the light. I don't think it would be too hard to short this thing out, and that wouldn't be fun.
Its worth noting, however, that the light will function perfectly well with any button-top 18650, or even 2xCR123/RCR123, but it won't be able to charge them without that cathode ring around the anode button. In addition, the included 18650 cell works equally well in any light I own. If you just have to do a "special" battery for your rechargeable light, this isn't a bad way to do it.
Micro Dok & Battery Album
User InterfaceThe interface on this light is very simple. The light has a single electronic switch on the side. A quick press turns it on in the last memorized position. A quick press again turns it off. Holding the button while its on causes it to cycle through the center three modes - low > mid > high > low > etc. There are three shortcuts:
- A quick double-tap from off takes it to turbo.
- A long press from off takes it to moonlight.
- A quick triple-tap from off activates a nice strobe.
Mode spacing is generally good with each mode being significantly dimmer or brighter than the other.
The strobe mode is really the only "special" mode on this light. It uses the highest output of the light and is a nice disorienting strobe.
All-in-all its a very nice UI and is quite easy to use, But I'm not sure why they'd leave the turbo mode out of the normal rotation of outputs. Moonlight makes more sense - if I'm searching for my lowest output I may want to do that from off, but if I'm in the middle of a job and find I need the maximum output from my light, I've got to turn it off, pause, and then double-click to get it. That's inconvenient.
Testing & MeasurementsCandela/Throw
I tried to do this as "officially" as possible - dark room, included 18650 battery fresh off the charger and light on for 30 seconds before taking measurements. Distances were measured with my Ryobi laser ruler directly in meters. Lux readings were taken with my LX1330 light meter. I used this candela calculator for the conversions.
Here are my results:
|Distance (m)||lux reading||equiv. candela||calculated throw|
Here are my measured current draws at the tailcap:
|Mode 1||Mode 2||Mode 3||Mode 4||Mode 5|
|1020 lumens||450 lumens||100 lumens||20 lumens||1 lumen|
|1.96 A||1.26 A||216 mA||42 mA||3 mA|
The S30R Baton II is 25 mm wide at the head and 24 mm wide at the tail. You'd never know it wasn't perfectly cylindrical when carrying it though. I measured just over 117 mm in length. The light is 131 g with the included 3600 mAh 18650, 81 g empty. All of this is in line with Olight's reported specs except maybe the weight, although I'm not sure anybody would notice a 3 g discrepancy. Maybe they measured it with the smaller 3200 mAh battery.
Indoor BeamshotsSo lets turn this thing on! First, we'll start with some white-wall beamshots. These were made with the light about 3/4 m from the wall.
- Turbo, f2.8, 1/100 sec (properly exposed). Center hotspot is well defined but there's still good spill.
- Turbo, f2.8, 1/400 sec.
- Turbo, f2.8, 1/800 sec. Spill is almost gone but there's still a good hotspot remaining.
- Turbo, f2.8 1/1600 sec. Spill is gone and hotspot is dim, but still hanging in there.
Indoor Beamshot Album
Real-world BeamshotsTo see how this little light does in the real world, I took a couple of photos of part of my back yard. Here are the conditions tonight. Not much to see; its very dark back here. Here's the same shot with the S30R. There's a good broad hotspot in the center with decent spill. The treeline is about 100 ft away.
I took the same shot with two similar lights - a Zebralight SC62w and a Nitecore MH12. The Zebralight has an orange peel reflector so its more floody and the Nitecore is designed to be especially throwy for its size. The Olight strikes a nice balance between them.
Here's a quick animation of how they compare.
Outdoor Beamshot Album
ConclusionThere's an awful lot to like about the S30R Baton II. Its a solid little light with great construction and many features that really set it apart from the crowd. There's really nothing else on the market quite like it. I think its small enough and capable enough to make a great edc light, and the added functionality of the magnetical tailcap can't be overstated. The charging base also makes it especially well suited for use on a bedside table as an emergency light or just "handy-to-have-nearby" light. Of course it can do both of those things - edc by day, emergency light by night, and do them quite well. The new switch style seems like a good change that would be less likely to accidentally activate, although I don't have a v1 example of this light for comparison. Time will tell whether this tailcap design is more robust that last year's version, but since there's nothing in it but a couple of direct-linked contacts, I can't really see why it should fail. All-in-all, I think the S30R Baton II deserves serious consideration by anyone looking for a nice general purpose flashlight.
- Rechargeable with charging base
- Magnetic tailcap!
- Easily pocketable size
- Good balance of throw and flood
- Moonlight mode
- Beautiful styling
- Top-notch construction
- Voltage on the outside - really unlikely to cause issues but it does make me a bit uncomfortable
- Special battery, but just for charging functions
- Turbo only accessible from off
- Switch can be difficult to locate by feel
Anthony Vapes: Desire Mad Mod Kit Tech Review
Introduction:The Desire Mad Mod Kit is a kit that contains their latest mod the Mad Mod, paired with their First Tank the M-tank. Desire is a company that’s been around in vaping for quite some time mostly making RDAs but in 2018 started making mods like the rage and cut squonk mods i’ve reviewed. The Mad Mod is a single 2x700 (takes 21700, 20700, or 18650) mod rated at 108 watts and is styled like a simple rectangle box. Looking around i don’t see the mod itself and only the kit for around 60 USD at elementvape which is the cheapest. It’s available in 5 colors Red, Tiffany Blue, Silver, Black, and Purple.
Manufacturer's Specs: Mod
- Dimensions - 146.5mm by 37mm by 25mm (Includes Tank)
- Single High-Amp 21700 Battery - Not Included
- Optional Single High-Amp 18650 Battery - Battery Sleeve Included
- Wattage Output Range: 5-108W
- Resistance Range: 0.08-3.0ohm
- Output Voltage Range: 0-8V
- Versatile Temperature Control Suite
- TCR Mode
- Ni200, Titanium, Stainless Steel Compatibility
- Power Multiple Graph (PMG) Mode
- 0.96" OLED Screen
- Hinged Bottom Battery Door
- Short-Circuit Protection
- Low Voltage Protection
- Over-Charging Protection
- Over-Vaping Protection
- Lom Auto Lock Protection
- Micro USB Charging Port
- 510 Connection Thread
- Available in Black, Blue, Purple, Red, Silver
Manufacturer's Specs: Tank
- 25mm Diameter
- 3mL Juice Capacity
- Superior Stainless Steel Construction
- Pyrex Glass Reinforcement
- 0.2ohm Coil Head
- Dual Adjustable Bottom Airflow
- Top Push-to-Slide Fill System
- Delrin Wide Bore Drip Tip
- 24 Gold-Plated 510 Connection
- Available in Black, Silver, Tiffany Blue, Silver, Red, Purple
Included in box:
- 1 Desire 108W Mad Mod
- 1 M-Tank
- 1 18650 Converter Sleeve
- 1 USB Charger
- 1 Accessories Packet
- 1 Glass Tank
- 1 0.2ohm Regular Coil
- 1 User Manual
Initial Impressions and featuresWhen I first got this Kit, I knew I was already working on the review for the tank which i reviewed a few weeks back so I won’t be talking about the tank today, I’ll just focus on the mod. The mod itself though really impressed my from the start. It’s a very simple mod making it feel like a throwback to the old days and a little different from the normal crazy designs we see from desire. It’s a simple small rectangle mod that reminded me of the battlestar mini in a way but the mad mod takes bigger batteries. I like that it can take a 21700, 20700 or 18650 battery but in a small size. It’s got a good size screen on the front and feels really nicely built with some weight to it. I love all the color options as well. They sent me a purple and it looks great with the matching tank. Overall I liked the simplicity of it and i think many people wanted to see less flashy mods as well and this fits the bill.
Watt Mode Performance (chart and spreadsheet in picture album)Now let’s get into some data. I ran my normal testing. I used Samsung 30T batteries for the testing. Testing resistances were done at .12, .15, .2, and .62 ohms. wattage points were max (108), 80, 60, 40 and 20. At .12 ohms it maxed out at 94 watts and 28 amps. For the rest of the testing it was a little on the low side 2-8 watts. Slight struggle but on par with most mods. At .15 it maxed out at 112 watts. The rest were pretty good 1-3 watts high or on point. For the .2 test it maxed out at 112 watts. Again really good but a little on the high side 2-4 watts mostly. For the .62 testing it maxed out at 111 watts and 8.31+ volts. For the rest of the testing a bit high 2-10 watts which is common. The volts shows there is a boost circuit in this mod like most single battery mods have.
Overall I felt the performance of this mod was really good. It barely struggled with the .12 ohm build which is common for most mods at that resistance to struggle a bit. It mostly hits slightly high. I was able to get 112 watts max, so I consider it to be accurately rated at 108 watts. The 8.31 volt limit shows there is a boost circuit. Their manual lists the max Volts at 8V so it exceeds that and could be higher since i was capped off by the watt limit. They list an amp limit on this mod of 35A. The most i got was 28 with a .12 ohm coil which is on the higher end of the average range for a single battery mod (25-30) but a bit short of the listed spec. They should have listed it at 30 IMO but 35 isn’t a gross overstatement. Just a slight one. Personally If i was listing the specs I’d call the mod 112 watts, 8.4V and 30A. So overall not bad listings except the amp limit which i feel is slightly overstated. The mod never got warm when stressing it at all. The mod also fires very fast and the preheats all work correctly. The mod has a PMG (watt curve which works well but is kinda funky to program at first.
Simplified TLDR Power Performance summaryMod performance is really good. Mostly hits just a few watts off on the high side. Accurately rated for watts (112), Yes boost circuit, average amp limit of 28 but falls short of the 35A listed. Volts tested at 8-31+ so a little better than the 8V listed. PMG (watt curve) works as it should.
Temperature Control PerformanceUsing SS316 wire in SS mode, I tested 8 builds. 1 simple round single coil, 1 simple round dual Coil, 3 large fancy single coils builds, and 3 large fancy dual coil builds. The mod has full adjustable watts and full adjustable TCR in TCR mode but no adjustable TCR in preset TC modes like SS, Ni200, and Ti. I Didn’t use TCR mode as i didn’t feel a need to. With that said in SS mode the TC was surprisingly good. I wasn’t expecting much based on their other mods I reviewed but I had no issues at all. It was always consistent, smooth throttle, no dry hits and a warm vape in the 400-430F range so it does feel slightly warm and i suggest starting around 380F and working your way up until you get the temp you like. No complaints there at all. Adjusting the watts also changes the ramp up. Even at the tail end of my review i decided to do another double check and leave the mod on 420F and SS mode and throw on 4 different builds back to back again to be sure. 3 fancy dual coil builds and 1 fancy single coil build. I never had to adjust anything and all 4 builds worked great. Overall pretty impressed and a good mod for TC
Other Usage NotesThe mod uses a standard 5 click to turn on and off. The menu system is a bit outdated and clunky. It’s like the old school wismec one and similar to other desire mods. It’s one area i feel they really need to improve on and make a better to navigate menu system. 3 clicks takes you to menu mode where things on the screen blink. Use the up button to cycle modes *watts, TC NI, TC TI, TC SS, TC TCR (M1, M2, M3), and PMG (Watt Curve). Use the down button to change other settings on the mod liek get into programming the PMG mode or changing the watts in TC mode. Press fire to accept. Really old school and annoying to use IMO. Using up and fire sets the resistance and down and fire clears the puffs. Up and Down locks the adjustment buttons but you can still fire. To program the TCR M slots turn the device off then press fire and up to get into that setting. I’m not sure why we need to turn the mod off to change settings in 2018.
The Desire Mad Mod adjusts by .1 watt increments under 75 watts and full watt increments 75 or more. That needs to be adjusted as well as it’s pointless at that high. It should be 20 or more is full watt adjustment. The mod itself is built solid with no rattle at all, and has a good weight. Feels solid but not heavy. The Battery door is a standard Bottom Latch and It’s easy to get batteries in and out without damaging wraps and takes 1 2x700 battery (21700, 20700, or 18650 with included adapter). All batteries fit really well except the avatar controls 21700 which are slightly bigger than other 21700s for some reason and with those it’s a little hard to close the door but other then those batteries all the other one’s fit in nicely and it’s easy to close the door.
The paint looks nice and doesn't scratch off, and i have no visible wear on mine even on the bottom which is SS colored on all the mods. I love the coloring on the purple one i have, It’s a matte purple and the shell is aluminum and plated. The fire button is nice and clicky and a good size. It’s a Silver textured circle. It works well and It never gets stuck or anything though which is as it should be. The 510 pin gave me no issues and every atomizer i used on it worked great with no gaps. The mod handles 25mm atomizer flush. Anything bigger will overhang. The 510 is centered as well. The screen is a good size .96 inch black and white screen that is nice and bright and easy to see. Also for branding the mod itself is pretty nice overall but large. One side has a big “MAD” that covers the whole side stamped into it but it matches the color of the mod and looks nice IMO without standing out.
- Build Quality of mod
- nice simple looks
- Battery options (20700, 21700, 18650)
- 5 color options
- Power mode performance
- Accurately rated for watts
- good amp limit
- batteries are easy to get in and out without damaging wraps
- good size bright screen
- nice fire button
- centered 510 pin that takes 25mm atomizers
- TC performance
- good volt limit that exceeds it’s listed spec
- watt curve mode (PMG)
- old outdated menu system
- full watt adjustment 75+ (should do full watt lower)
- overstated amp spec (listed at 35A max was 28A)
- have to turn off mod to adjust TCR slots
ConclusionSo with all that said, do I recommend this mod or not? I don’t like to do a hard yes or no but this leans pretty heavy towards the yes. It’s easily one of the best single 2x700 mods to come out this year right along with the armour pro and aspire puxos. Size wise it’s a little smaller then the puxos but a little bigger then the armour pro. Hard to go wrong with any of them really so nice to have another option in that category. Most of my complaints are tied to the menu system which needs to be updated but it’s not a deal breaker. I’ve added this mod to my sheet of recs linked down below.
This is Anthony Vapes just keeping it honest, hopefully you all can say the same and i’ll catch you on my next review.
Product DisclaimerThis product was sent to me from Desire Designs
Review DisclaimerDue to possible QC difference your experience may vary.
Reviewer DisclaimerI’ve been doing vape reviews since late 2016 and have done around 300 reviews to date. I enjoy helping vapers on forums as well and helping contribute to the great vape community. I’m not an “out of the box” reviewer. I do my best to be thorough at all times and have enough experience with many products to tell what’s good and what’s not. All mods get tested with an oscilloscope and stress tested and results are posted in my reviews.
Recommendations and Past Review Linkswritten reviews list here
Youtube Channel here
Spreadhseet of Recommendations here
Best of 2018 so far list here
Best of 2017 list here